If you’ve booked flights to Rome, and you’re into wine then check out one of my favourite places to get lost in Europe, Trastevere. Not too far from the hustle and bustle of the main tourist attractions, it’s a small area sandwiched between a busy road and the river, Trastevere is a maze of meandering lanes, full of great value restaurants and the odd wine bar too.
In the evenings you’ll find two types of people there. Those eating and drinking or those just wandering about, looking comfortably lost. And both camps are just as likely to be Romans or tourists. It’s one place in Rome where you get to feel more like a local than a tourist.
The wandering is part of the fun, walking up and down the lanes to work up an appetite while checking out where to eat and engage in a bit of people watching too.
Wherever I’ve eaten in Trastevere I’ve either started in or ended up in a wine bar called Enoteca Trastevere and it’s one I try and get back to anytime I go back.
I wouldn’t advise going there with an empty stomach, more for a pre-dinner aperatif or to wash down the dinner from a neighbouring eatery. That said, you won’t go hungry, you’ll get a variety of cheeses, salamis, pizza or a plate of pasta. But the food can be a bit pricey.
But it’s really the wine I’ve gone there for. And so, on to the vino. The wine list is as long as the Appian Way, with wines from every corner of Italy.
Half the fun is looking through the list and asking about one wine or another. My favourite phrase being “Come si dice … in italiano?”. Wine is the common language here which makes up for my lack of proficiency
Whether it’s a dark brooding wine from Puglia, a Super Tuscan or a local wine from Lazio, they have literally everything there.
The best experience, by far, has been letting the lads there do their thing and recommend wines by the glass with the various nibbles that accompany them.
On another visit it was a fabulous Tignanello. Pricey, but not when compared to the retail price here in Ireland.
My top two tips for visiting Enoteca Trastevere
- Go late, you’ll avoid the busyness
- Eat before and just order nibbles to go along with wines
Where you’ll find Enoteca Trastevere.
Via della Lungaretta, 86