From last week’s Sunday Tribune magazine, my column on Godello.
Godello (pronounced “Go-day-oh”) is a grape very much on the up. It’s virtually unique to Valdeorras in the northwestern Spanish province of Galicia but there’s also some grown next door in Bierzo. Like many indigenous grapes elsewhere in Spain, Italy and Portugal, it has been brought back from near extinction. If you’re looking for something different, then it’s a must-try white.
Val de Sil, Valdeorras 2008
Expect to pay: €18
Val de Sil dates back to 1885 when grower José Ramón Gayoso planted Godello on the high, slate slopes of the Sil valley. Since then, vineyard land was sold and bought back by the original family.
This Godello has everything, lovely fruit, floral aromas, a soft mellow texture and lots of minerality. This wine has everything. A must-try.
Available: independent wine shops and from spanishwines.ie
Tempestad, Valdeorras 2009
Expect to pay: €15
Tempestad means tempest or storm, regular occurrences in Valdeorras as rain filled clouds, brought by winds from the Atlantic, and dump their payload onto the mountains below.
The climate, coupled with the steeply inclined mountains seem to provide the perfect environment for the Godello which grows here. Partial oak ageing adds to the complexity of this wine. Rich, creamy and full of minerals.
Available: independent wine shops
Gabo do Xil, Valdeorras 2009
Expect to pay: €14-€15
Xil is Galician for Sil, the river which cuts through the steep slate slopes. But if we’re to mention names, then Telmo Rodriguez should also be included. He’s the winemaker, and one of a new generation of Spanish winemakers who are bringing little known regions and grapes to the world stage.
In his Godello, he has created a masterpiece. Rich, perfumed, tropical, silky. Another stunning example of how this small region in northwest Spain is destined for greatness.
Available: independent wine shops
Capricho, Val de Paxariñas, Bierzo 2009
Expect to pay: €17
The Capricho Val de Paxariñas is from Galicia’s provincial neighbour, Castilla y León, from another rising region, Bierzo.
Thanks to Spanish import and importer, Antonio Lorente of Vinostito, this is widely available and one of the best examples of Godello (though Doña Blanca, another native grape, makes up around 25% of the blend). Lots of tropical flavours, a little mint and a generous creamy texture.
Available: good wine shops and from spanishwines.ie
[...] This post was mentioned on Twitter by WineBlogFeed and Susan Rice, Wine Lover. Wine Lover said: Gorgeous Godello: From last week’s Sunday Tribune magazine, my column on Godello. Godello (pronounced “Go-day-oh… https://bit.ly/eTrmnF [...]
1601 sells a Godello, the brand is on the tip of my tongue but I can’t recall it just now. Nice grape, bit like riesling, no?
[...] Gorgeous Godello (looking for a wine to go with Sunday dinner today?) via Sour Grapes [...]
Great suggestions, especially the Val de Sil. I personally prefer Godello to the trendier Albariño, as I find the lesser quality Albariños can be that bit too acidic. Other interesting/ off the beaten path Spanish white wines I would suggest include:
- Conreria de Scala Dei’s “Les Brugueres” (Priorat white made with white grenache, and employing sensible oaking- the perfect “winter white” and great food companion)
- and I am not sure if you can find in Ireland, but the Pago de Vallegarcia Viognier from central Spain (DO is Vino de la Tierra de Castilla) is simply to die for!
As you know Lar, I am a huge fan of Godello. I think Antonio brings in the finest examples to these shores, but would love to see more. Wonder is the Montenovo available these days? I believe there is a very small allocation, and it used to be less expensive than Val de Sil, but offering more in my mind.
Agree with Genevieve that (in my humble opinion) it is a far superior grape variety than Albarino. I enjoy Verdejo as well.