
I approached the WSET intermediate course with a dose of cynicism. From reading and listening to people about wine, I had more than a sneaking suspicion that it was all a bit of embellishment. Wannabe or failed writers expression themselves by exaggerating the base pleasure of drinking fermented grape juice.
The cynic and the gooseberry
One of the things that really got my goat was the humble gooseberry.
Why? Many a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand is described as having notes of gooseberry.
But really, the gooseberry is long gone for most of us. At best a bitter childhood memory.
But many wine sellers insist on using the descriptor. So, they’ve read reviewer notes and are just repeating them which, to me, lacks any imagination. It’s also dishonest. Yet, everyone continues to swallow it.
My fear was that wine tasting in a class or group exacerbates the problem and creates new legions of gooseberry goons that will spout out a learned wine vocabulary that has been taught rather than tasted.
I still have that fear, but remind myself to question everything. Then came the liquorice
The Redeeming Liquorice
During the fourth WSET night, we were tasting a couple of wines from Bordeaux. On smelling a Chateau Lasalle St. Emilion Grand Cru I was smelling something that was so familiar, yet I couldn’t place it. Someone yelled out “Liquorice” and that was it, I got it immediately.
In this case, I got it. However, when people describe wine, they’re referencing their olfactory memory. They may have visited a shoe factory and can easily recall leather, their grandfather may have smoked a pipe and they can identify with tobacco.
And then it all cleared up for me. The aim of this kind of course and of wine education in general is to give people a common vocabulary, albeit a lowest common vocabulary, but with a very specific purpose.
To be able to describe wine as objectively as possible, despite personal preferences. That’s the key point – to be able to step beyond personal and subjective preferences and respect and admire a wine for what it is and how’s it made and respect that it will be likeable by others

Nice post Lar,
Every once and a while I get one of these epiphany wines that will finally place a descriptor that I have been reading about for a while. Last year at a tasting I got to taste a 96 Pichon Baron and I went ‘Ahh Tobacco!’. It was a delightful sensation finally being able to put a definate smell to what others had written about and I had read about consistantly. I have since picked this aroma up in a number of Cabernet based wines and can now identify it as a result of that tasting.
Similarly in Cape Town a number of years ago I attended a huge industry tasting, WOSA (wines of South Africa) I think, during which I tasted about 30 Sauvignon Blancs. This tasting gave me reference points for gooseberries and green peppers… I’m not sure if the flavours were actually those of gooseberries or green peppers in reality but I now always associate those flavours with these descriptors…
Drinking a fab QPR 05 Bourgogne Rouge this evening (Domaine De Croix), seek it out, it will bust your perception of no value pinots available from Burgundy.
Cheers,
Will
Hi Will,
thanks for that – the De Croix is on the shopping list. Berry Brothers?
Lar
That’s right. Fantastic stuff!